When I was deciding on flooring I knew I wanted it to be 1) easy to install myself 2) durable 3) waterproof 4) easy to repair scratches.
And the flooring I found at Lumber Liquidators fit my needs perfectly! I chose Coreluxe Dark Hollow Oak floors because I chose white "cotton" as the wall color, black as the accessory accent, and am using lots of other colors throughout. I didn't want the walls or floor to "compete" with the design, but rather, blend into the background.
There is so much to love about this flooring. First and foremost, there is no need for an underlayment. It can be easily installed on top of existing flooring, or in my case: OSB subfloor.
Next, because I installed the flooring in a new space there was no need to pull up the baseboard trim. The baseboards would be installed after the flooring was done so the hardest part of a typical or renovation install didn't really apply to me.
The MOST important thing to do correctly is setting the first "course" (aka section of flooring) Because the flooring is engineered (aka perfectly symmetrical) any tiny error in the placement of the first row will cause the ENTIRE house or room to be off. So, measure, measure, measure, and then measure again.
In a nutshell, the flooring slides and snaps together. The grooves are engineered, however, so even a slight bit of misalignment will cause them to not snap correctly. It's easy to do, but does take a bit of practice.
The next thing I had to remember was the flooring could only be installed from left to right. Because the flooring snaps on the short sides AND the long sides, once you cut a piece, the cut renders the spare piece usable ONLY on the left (starting) edge.
For cutting I HIGHLY recommend using a chop saw. After having just installed an entire house of cladding, my chop saw was handy and made perfectly square end cuts.
My already-installed bathroom door did cause some issues. I had to slide the flooring under the door frame because I couldn't "click" the floor together using the 45 angle degree that is necessary. This is pretty impossible to explain here (and I tried to chat with my boyfriend over the phone about it and after 30 minutes we gave up. It's hard to describe a 3D problem without standing over it! LOL) and suffice it to say it looks amazing but required a bit of brain work to figure out how to slide it under the frame.
After the install I taped down some protective paper I had which certainly helped but didn't keep the floors completely scratch free. After the worst of the construction process was over I pulled up the paper and cleaned like a mad woman. It was then I discovered a few deep, and several little scratches.
Luckily, I found an amazingly well designed scratch pen which works literal wonders on fixing scratches. For my next install I'll use a cardboard product meant specifically to protect floors, instead of the kraft style paper I had available.